Overview

A stunning traverse from the Cibrario Refuge that crosses three high-altitude passes, two of them above 3,000 metres: the Colle Sulè, the Autaret, and the Spiol. The first part of the route follows the Tour della Bessanese, with breathtaking views of the imposing and severe surrounding peaks, before descending towards the upper Viù Valley with the Rocciamelone directly ahead. A final, very steep descent leads to the large artificial Lake Malciaussia, nestled at the foot of the outlying ridges of Monte Turlo (to the south), the Rocciamelone (to the west), and Monte Lera (to the north).


Starting point

Directions

From the Cibrario Refuge (2,616 m), cross the Pian Sabiunin, a terrace criss-crossed by numerous intersecting streams. At the far end, the path steepens and bends left, cutting across a snowfield that generally persists until late summer (crampons may be needed depending on conditions), then continues clearly marked by blazes and cairns up very steep zigzags on loose ground.

After gaining three hundred metres of elevation, reach a broad, suspended scree basin at the foot of the Testa Sulà and Monte Lera, where the remains of the Bertà glacier lie. Looking back, wide views open up towards the Croce Rossa, while to its right, behind the saddle of the Colle Altare, the Levanna and Gran Paradiso come into sight.

The path continues on a gentle traverse south-west, then bends right and, with a short but steep climb, reaches the Colle Sulè (3,063 m), set between the severe Testa Sulà (to the north) and Punta Sulè (to the south). On the far side, the next objective, the Colle Autaret, is clearly visible.

The path drops down the very steep opposite slope, where snowfields may persist due to the shaded aspect, offering splendid views of the Rocciamelone pyramid.

Where a path joins from the left (which could be used as a shortcut to avoid the climb back up to the Colle Autaret if needed), resume a determined ascent, emerging a little higher into the hollow that holds a first lake.

Skirt it on the left, climbing a series of natural terraces. At a junction, keep right and then descend to a second, tiny lake, on whose shore stands the Moisè shelter (2,953 m), a former border guard barracks. Splendid views open up to the south towards Monviso, with the Orsiera directly ahead looking like a scaled-down copy.

Pass the barracks on its left side and resume the climb on the comfortable military mule track, which stays high above a pair of small lakes. Over a small col, descend into the hollow of the upper Lake Autaret (2,991 m, sometimes called the western Lake Autaret), around which coils of barbed wire, the ruins of a barracks, and the remains of a bunker, partly demolished following the Treaty of Paris, are still visible.

Follow the eastern shore of the lake on a slightly airy traverse, then resume climbing an easier slope of flaky rock. You soon reach the Colle Autaret (3,077 m), the highest point of the route, marked by a large wooden cross. This is a pass of great historical significance on the French border. Some claim that Hannibal crossed the Alps here during his march on Italy, although the most recent scientific theories have disproved this. From the pass, there is a spectacular view of the Vallon de la Lombarde opposite, a side valley of the Maurienne, enclosed by a wall of peaks culminating in the imposing Pointe de Charbonnel.

Without crossing into France, take the path that traverses south-east above the western shore of the upper lake, descending towards its outflow. Follow the outflow briefly on the right bank before crossing it. Continuing through grass and rocks, from which the ancient paved mule track emerges, pass an extraordinary quantity of old barbed wire coils, pigtail fence posts, and metal bed frames. The path, with spectacular views of the Rocciamelone, bends east and traverses a broad depression that drops towards the upper Viù Valley.

Where the path that could have been used to avoid the climb to the Colle Autaret joins from the left, cross several side streams and continue along a long straight stretch and a few switchbacks, ignoring all side turnings. Climbing again, regain about a hundred metres of elevation to reach the Colle Spiol (2,594 m), marked only by a small cairn.

The path climbs left for a few metres, then makes a fine traverse above a broad, suspended grassy plateau. After crossing a side stream, reach the stony hollow of the Pian Sulè (2,528 m), where you need to turn right (note: not obvious), climbing towards a small col.

From here, all that remains is a long descent in switchbacks towards Lake Malciaussia, constantly visible on the valley floor below. Drop steeply in tight zigzags, with some sections that require care where the path is waterlogged or slightly eroded. The route alternates traverses, shoulders, and endless zigzags, sometimes tight and slightly exposed, cutting across the very steep grassy slope. The views of the lake, drawing gradually nearer, are spectacular.

Much lower down, the path bends right at the foot of a small waterfall and follows the stream to reach the large artificial Lake Malciaussia (1,805 m), where the traverse ends. The construction of the dam in the 1930s submerged the ancient hamlet that bore the same name.

Text by Valerio Dutto of Cuneotrekking.com

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